WITH LOVE FROM PUGLIA
every delicious bite, beach and bed we frequented
I’ve been to Puglia once before, in 2014, on a work trip with Meringue Girls. We were there to cater a small part of an enormous Indian wedding at Borgo Egnazia - one of the most luxurious and infamous hotels in the region. For most of that trip I was either in a basement kitchen making thousands of meringues, or getting lit with the guests after the event wrapped and skinny dipping in their private pool. So it’s safe to say I felt I had unfinished business in Puglia, there was much more to explore, to eat and to see.
In short, I absolutely loved my time there. We ate like kings and queens, working off a short but growing list of recommendations from trusted friends and colleagues. We swam in some of the clearest water I have ever seen in Europe, we ate some of the best seafood of my life and we truly experienced the full spectrum of holiday accommodation, from the ludicrously cheap but beautiful spots, to the run down, frankly haunted and disgusting stops and then ending things on a high at the most breathtaking converted Convent, which was not cheap, but my god was it worth it.
I’ve broken down all our favourite spots here into places to eat and drink, to swim and to stay - plus where not to stay. We spent a week near Ostuni, a few days in Lecce (before fleeing the haunted house) and ending the trip at the very tip of the heel, in-between Otranto and Tricase. We flew into Brindisi, the best airport for those areas, both Ostuni and Lecce being an hours drive in either direction. I would say a car is pretty crucial, as most of the best beaches are a little out of the towns and cities.
I also cannot recommend going in September more, the weather is still incredible, averaging 29C a day, zero rain while we were there but also a bit cooler at night which made sleeping a lot easier. Being just outside of peak season and the school holidays it was a lot quieter than usual and everything we booked was a little cheaper, including the flights. It’s also just a real touch to extend summer by a few weeks if you live in the UK and you know you won’t be seeing a warm sunny day for another 6-8 months. Certainly makes looking down the barrel of the gun at Winter a little easier.
So, without further ado, please enjoy my guide to Puglia, every little pasticciotto, plate of orecchiette, hunk of focaccia, platter of crudo and sip of natty wine. I could have said a lot more, but I hit the Substack word limit, so, here we are.
Sending love, Rosie x
